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When compiling a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred names. Yet, tucked high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a far-flung part of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

This small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. This accolade has made the family completely shocked.

“I’m completely surprised,” says the owner’s son, pointing to his family’s dedication that culminated in their small shop earning such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The little venue, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has retained much of its earlier feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the food, and this eatery definitely delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent quality.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this modest spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

The Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate beyond its own doors. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this gastronomic triumph.